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Having been to Newcastle several times before and even visited as far as Morpeth, I was unprepared for the sweeping landscape and dramatic history of greater Northumberland. I'm just back from a few days there, staying in Howick and therefore close to not only their stunning gardens but also Craster and its famous Robson's Smokehouse. I can honestly say that their smoked kippers are unlike any others I have tasted - succulent, gentle and buttery. On another cold, wet day we were immediately brightened by hot tea and scrummy cheese on toast at the also much recommended wonderland of Barter Books in Alnwick - easy and friendly and so conducive to browsing and exploring and ultimately, buying! The changeable weather didn't stop us roaming the countryside where the iconic Whin Sill rock formations became a familiar sight; at Bamburgh, Cragside, around Dunstanburgh and most amazingly, on our boat trip to the Farne Islands, those columns teeming with nesting gulls and guillemots, cormorants and shags. Finally, we heard such stories of poverty, hardship and sacrifice and of ingenuity, generosity and bravery. On the last day of our break, the sun came out and we walked the length of Bamburgh beach to Seahouses and back, paddling most of the way, watching kite flying, children fishing in rock pools, families with their dogs and all of us with so much space and open air between us to really bask in the freedom. Happy times!
